We bid Hokkaido a regretful farewell on Wednesday morning, consoled only by the promise of our next destination: Tohoku, the northeastern stretch of the island home to Tokyo and Kyoto. In the airport before our flight, I spotted a familiar front on a banner welcoming guests: the Sapporo beer garden from the night before! I laughed at this confirmation that our guides had selected the best of Japanese dining for the tour.

Today we anticipated our first encounter with the four-legged variety of agriculture at Koimai Farm. Over a century ago in 1891, its founders transformed a barren volcanic valley into flourishing fields and forests. Though the site regularly opens its doors to visitors for pony rides and BBQ grilling, we were invited behind the scenes to meet the stars of the show.

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